Binding A Quilt
Binding a quilt is usually one of the last things you do before the quilt is considered finished. There are a number of ways to bind a quilt:
- double fold binding also known as french fold binding
- single fold binding
- fusible binding
- raw edge binding
Quilt binding can be wide or narrow, and the color can either contrast or blend with your quilt.
Cross grain, lengthwise or straight grain?
For art quilts, quilts that hang on the wall or quilts that will be used for decorative purposes, you can use any type of binding since the binding will not be tested.
For quilts that will be used such as bed quilts or lap quilts, double fold cross grain or bias binding tends to wear better and will give extra strength and flexibility.
Joining the Binding Strips

Binding strips can be joined end to end or on the bias.
Joining strips end to end usually results in seam allowance bulk which can be visible once the quilt binding is complete.

Joining strips on the bias will reduce the bulk of seamlines, and is a particularly useful method when piecing together a number of strips.
This method also helps to diminish a noticeable seamline when piecing busy fabrics.
Securing The Binding
Quilt binding is traditionally folded over the edge of the quilt, from front to back, and handstitched to the backing with an invisible stitch.
Because we work with art quilts, this rule does not necessarily have to apply.
To give visual interest to your quilt, try stitching down the quilt binding using one of the decorative stitches on your machine in a variegated thread or contrasting color thread.
Or use a decorative handstitch using perl cotton or embroidery floss.
Instructions
Instructions for Binding a Quilt
Using Double Fold, or French Fold Method
with Invisible Join
Notes
These instructions are for 1/4" binding cut on the grain.
Tips
- Before binding the quilt, ensure that the edges of the quilt are cut to size and straight, and that the corners of the quilt are cut at an accurate 90° angle.
- The quilt batting should fill the binding to give a more professional look so when folding the binding to the back of the quilt, ensure that the batting fills the binding snugly.
- For 1/2" binding use 1/2" seam allowance instead of 1/4".
- 3" strips will work for binding with 1/4" through to 1/2" seam allowance.
Step 1 - cut binding strips
- Calculate the total length of the binding (distance around the outer edge of the quilt plus approx 12")
- Cut sufficient strips 3" by the width of fabric, or calculate the exact width of the binding using the handy calculator
Step 2 - join binding strips

- With right sides together, lay two strips of binding at right angles to each other and stitch a seam from corner to corner
- Trim seams to 1/4"
- Press open and trim dog ears (see special notes at end of tutorial)
- Continue joining strips in this manner
Step 3 - press binding
- Fold binding in half lengthwise, wrong sides facing and raw edges matching
- Press
Step 4 - begin stitching
- Select one side of the quilt to begin stitching the binding
- With the right side of the quilt facing up, place binding on top of quilt
- Align raw edges and pin in place
- Leave a binding tail of approx 10" free and using 1/4" seam allowance, begin stitching approx three quarters of the way along the quilt through all layers
- Stop stitching 1/4" from edge of quilt and backstitch
Step 5 - begin folding the corner
- Fold the binding upwards creating a 90° right angle
Step 6 - finish folding the corner
- Fold the binding back down on itself aligning the raw edges with the right hand side of the quilt and creating a fold in the binding along the top of the quilt
- Begin stitching from edge of fold, stop stitching 1/4" from edge of quilt and backstitch as per step 4
- Repeat steps 5 and 6 for each corner
Step 7 - finish stitching
- When stitching the last side of the quilt, stop stitching approx 12" from where the stitching originally began
- The binding should overlap by approx 6" each side
Step 8 - prepare binding ends
- Fold each end of the binding back on itself leaving approx 1/8"-1/4" gap, and press with a hot iron to make crease marks
- Because the join will be sewn on the bias, leaving a small gap in the binding gives it some tension and ensures that it fits snugly against the quilt
Step 9 - stitch binding ends
- Open out the binding tails fully
- For better visibility, mark the pressed crease lines with a fabric marking pencil:
left side bias strip - mark on the right side of the fabric
right side bias strip - mark on the wrong side of the fabric
- Manipulate and pin the quilt in such a way that the binding tails can be overlapped and pinned with ease
- With right sides facing, overlap the right binding tail on top of the left binding tail, matching crease lines as per diagram
- Pin securely in place
- Stitch a seam from top left corner to bottom right corner
Step 10 - make sure the binding fits
- Test the fit of the binding before trimming the seam
- The binding should fit snugly
- If not, unpick the seam, reposition the binding edges and restitch
- Once the binding fits, trim seam to 1/4"
- Press seams open and trim the dog ears
Step 11 - finish stitching the binding
- Refold the binding, wrong sides together and press
- Match the raw edges of the binding to the quilt and pin
- Stitch in place
Step 12 - adding a quilt sleeve
- If a quilt sleeve is required, insert it at this point
- Refer to the "Quilt Sleeve Tutorial" for making a sleeve
Step 13 - finishing the binding
- Fold the binding over the raw edges to the back of the quilt taking care that the batting fills the binding to the edge
- Pin in place
- The corners should fold over to create a neat miter
- Hand stitch in place
Options
- Instead of hand stitching the binding in place, try using a decorative stitch. Use the same thread in the bobbin for a professional finish.
Special Notes - Dog Ears
- Dog ears are the tips of the fabric that stick out from the raw edges when a seam is joined on the diagonal.
