Sewing Machine Needle Information


Information

Using the correct type of sewing machine needle for your project will go a long way to determining your project’s success or failure.

Selecting a sewing machine needle is not difficult. The "Types Chart" details the different types of needles available as well as their unique applications.

Use this chart as a guideline only when selecting your needle. Just because one type of needle is recommended for a specific purpose, such as metallic needles for metallic thread, does not mean that another needle will not produce as good or better results.

If you find that one needle does not produce good stitching quality, swap it out for another type of needle.

Remember too, that the eye of the machine needle should be just large enough to accommodate the weight of thread you are using. Too large an eye will result in holes in your project; too small an eye will result in possible shredding of your thread.

And always remember, machine needles do dull over time. Make sure your needle is sharp and this will go a long way towards producing good stitching.

Parts Chart

Sewing Machine Needles

  • Shank
    The upper part of the needle is called the shank. It is usually round on one side and flat on the other.
  • Shaft
    The shaft is the lower part of the needle that extends from the base of the shank to the point.
  • Groove
    This part is located on the shaft on the same side as the rounded part of the shank. The groove, or indentation, acts as a thread guide and provides a channel for the thread to lie in as the needle passes through the fabric.
  • Scarf
    The scarf is visible on the flat side of the shaft. It is a short indentation located just above the eye of the needle. The purpose of the scarf is to allow the bobbin case hook to get close to the needle eye and catch the thread to form a stitch.
  • Eye
    This is the hole above the needle point through which the needle thread passes. The size of the eye varies with the needle type and size. A needle should be selected with an eye that is large enough to accommodate the weight of the thread that is being used.
  • Point
    The point is the tip of the needle that pierces through the fabric. Each needle type has a different point which is specifically designed for different types of fabric.

Sizing Chart

Sewing machine needles are sized according to two systems - European and American - and both numbers are usually marked on the package.

Needle sizes range from the finest which is 60/8, to the thickest which is 120/19.

European American
60 8
65 9
70 10
75 11
80 12
90 14
100 16
110 18
120 19

Types Chart

Sewing machine needles come in a variety of types. You should always make your needle selection based on the type of fabric, and the weight and type of thread you are using.

Ball Point Needle
Made especially for sewing on knits, its unique point does not damage or break knitted fibers.

Denim Needle

For jeans and similar densely woven materials.

Double Needle

Two needles mounted on a crossbar with a single shaft. Can be used with zig zag sewing machines that thread front to back. Sews two rows of stitching at the same time.

Hemstitch Needle
Sometimes called a Wing Needle, it is used to create decorative openwork or cut-work on tightly woven fabrics. The needle is very sharp and is made to cut the fabric.

Leather Needle
Has a slightly sharp cutting point suitable for leather and heavy non-woven synthetics.

Machine Embroidery Needle
For use with rayon and other specialty machine embroidery threads. The needle has a special scarf, long smooth groove, and large eye which helps to protect these more fragile type threads and guards against excess friction.

Metallica Needle
For use with metallic threads. It has a double sized, polished, and Teflon coated eye to assist with smooth flow of thread. The large eye helps to make threading easier, and also helps to prevent shredding and breaking when using metallic threads.

Quilting Needle
Made especially for piecing and machine quilting. The thin tapered design of these needles allows them to pass through many layers smoothly, which helps to eliminate skipped stitches.

Sharp Needle
A very slim needle with a thin shaft that helps make very straight stitches. The point is very sharp and because of this, is more fragile and needs to be changed regularly. Good for piecing high thread count fabrics like batiks, silks, and microfibers. It is also used for beautiful topstitching or edge stitching.

Stretch Needle
Made especially for synthetic suede or highly elastic synthetic knit wear. This needle has a medium ball point to help prevent skipped stitches.

Topstitch Needle
Has an extra large eye and large grooves to accommodate topstitch thread. This needle helps stitch perfectly straight lines and even stitches.

Universal Needle

A general purpose needle that can be used on knit or woven fabrics. It has a long scarf so it does not damage knits. It has a slight ball point which makes it unsuitable for stitching multiple layers or for use with high thread count fabrics.

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